Mission Codename Gimme Gravels
“A bouquet of muscle and power, ripeness and enticement,” – Cameron Douglas MS
Imagine a wine that marries the fruit purity, ripeness, and vibrant flavors of the New World with the structure, age-ability, and textural depth of classic Bordeaux.
We know that as a seasoned Operative, you are always looking for the next great wine at a GREAT price…
A 97-pointer (with a 96 and string of 95’s to boot!) that you could comfortably cellar for up to a decade. For less than $70?!
Wait, that’s not right - It’s less than $40?!!!
Today’s wine is one of the reasons we got into wine. The type of find we just can’t keep to ourselves. Gimblett Gravels in Hawke’s Bay is a region that carries immense caché with Masters of Wine and Master Sommeliers around the globe but is rarely seen.
For another perspective on just how good this stuff is check out Agent Somm’s video on this wine where she raves about it.
One of the region’s Producers to Know in a recent Decanter article, they point out that Elephant Hill “produces a wide array of sophisticated wines from across the three sub-regions under the guidance of longtime Hawke’s Bay winemaker Hugh Crichton, formerly of Vidal Estate.”
But let’s back up. Like to the other side of the globe.
Bordeaux loving Ops will remember that the region’s Left Bank owes its character, maybe even its success, to its Maritime Climate and DEEP gravel soils. As Vinography puts it, “Gravel is a word used in conjunction with some of wine’s most hallowed ground. The gravelly clays of Bordeaux’s Left Bank produce bottles bearing vaunted names such as Haut-Brion, Latour, Lafite, Mouton, and Margaux.” AND these soils were underwater until the region was drained by the Dutch in the 1600’s.
Today, there are other famous regions that have some gravel. But the only one to rival Bordeaux’s depth, AND the only one with a similar Maritime climate…
That’s right. It’s Gimblett Gravels.
And in wine terms, the region is in its infancy. “Little more than 150 years ago, the Gimblett Gravels Wine Growing District was completely under water.” explains Decanter. A shift in the local reiver in 1867 revealed the regions rocky soils, though it would be some time before anyone glimpsed their potential. “Too bony and barren to be of much use for farming, the gravel became the sort of wasteland that housed an army rifle range… But in the early 1980s, Chris Pask planted a small block of Cabernet Sauvignon – a variety that struggled to ripen elsewhere in New Zealand.”
And the rest is history. Only, not really… most of our Agents haven’t even heard of this region!
Which is to say, IT’S STILL UNDERVALUED!
Founded in 2003 by the Weiss family, Elephant Hill quickly became an ICON of Hawke’s Bay. Their commitment to sustainability, quality, and authenticity is celebrated locally, with a packed tasting room and stunning restaurant. If you have the chance to visit, the winery is jaw-dropping. Yet they have only recently been imported to the U.S.
And 2020? It’s hailed by critics as a “near perfect” vintage. Bursting with black and red fruit, cigar tobacco, and exotic spices, but restrained, structured, and layered, this wine is a sultry, seductive temptress. So very complex it’ll be hard not to open, but built to improve, and get even better with time!
Just read the superlative reviews below. Don’t just imagine discovering the next great wine. At 97-points and under $40, YOU HAVE!
97 Points – Wine Orbit “This is immediately captivating on the nose, showing blackcurrant, Black Doris plum, floral, mixed spice and cedar notes, followed by an impressively weighty palate that’s plump and substantial. Beautifully framed by finely infused tannins, it’s gutsy and sophisticated at the same time with a prolonged structured finish. From Gimblett Gravels. At its best: 2025 to 2037.”
96 Points – Andrew Caillard MW “Medium deep crimson. Attractive dark plum, dark cherry, vanilla, marzipan aromas with hinst of graphite. Beautifuly balanced wine with inky drak plum dark cherry fruits, fine lacy/ supple tannins and well-intregated vanilla marzipan oak notes. Finishes slinky firm and minerally with seductive dark and red berry fruits. Elegantly structured with all the elements in balance. Drink now – 2034”
95 Points – James Suckling “Very complex aromas of blackcurrants and graphite as well as purple fruit. Just a touch of smoke. It’s medium- to full-bodied with round and polished tannins and a long and flavorful finish. This is really nicely put together. A blend of 53% merlot, 24% cabernet sauvignon and 23% cabernet franc. Drinkable now, but it will be even better in another three or four years”
95 Points – Cameron Douglas MS “A bouquet of muscle and power, ripeness and enticement with roasted plums and dark berries, boysenberry and blue fruits. Other aromas come from the scents of smoky wood and cacao, clove and baked vanilla pod, dark plums and violets. There’s a suggestion of black licorice, freshly roasted coffee bean and bitter chocolate. Firm, dry, an abundance of plums and fine tannins, a salty acid line and baked nut quality. Delicious and refreshing, plenty of weight and intensity, a wine that can be enjoyed today, aged and well matched to food anytime. Best drinking from 2026 through 2036+”
95 Points – Raymond Chan “Full, deep ruby-red, lighter on edge. The nose is full and enticing with blackberry, cassis, plum, menthol, violet, stony minerals aromas and an amalgam of spice. Full-bodied, red plum, cassis and blackberry aromas interweaved with violet, stony minerals, clove, nutmeg, liquorice and savoury elements. A mealy palate packed with smooth, fine-grained tannins, iron-rich minerals and savoury elements. The fruit is concentrated with a great balance of sweet and sour; spices linger to a long, sustained finish. This red blend shows a concentrated, weighty, smooth mouthfeel, packed with richness, spice and beautiful fruit balance. Match with barvette steak and short ribs over the next 10 years. Fruit from 100% Stone vineyard in Gimblett Gravels, 53% Merlot clone 181, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon clone 10 and 23% Cabernet Franc clone 326, fermented to 14.5% alc, natural spring MLF. Aged 24 months in barrels 23% new oak, further 4 months in tanks on light lees.”
What the Winery Says
2020 'Kohatu' Gimblett Gravels Bordeaux Blend
- Winemaker
- Hugh Crichton
- Varietals
- 53% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc
- Vintage
- 2020
- Alcohol
- 14.5%
- Appellation
- Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
- Vineyard
- Stone Vineyard
- Aging
- 22 months
- Barrels
- 32% new French oak
About the Winery
Elephant Hill
WHAT THE AGENTS SAY
Agent Picks