In Piedmontese dialect Arneis is “rebel” or maybe “wild.” Either work well for this exuberant wine that, until the 1960s, used to be known as White Nebbiolo. The land of the Roero hills, rich in limestone and sand, brings texture and salinity to this wine, whose production is allowed only in the 19 municipalities in the province of Cuneo that rise on the left bank of the River Tanaro.

The color is straw yellow with greenish tinges. The nose is fresh and delicate with hints of broom and chamomile. The palate is surprisingly full and mineral, with excellent tanginess. Serve well chilled with seasonal vegetable frittatas, starters, and summer salads.