This wine has a heady illusion of sweetness and confection, and after that lovely slender syrup establishes itself, the oozes of prune and black-berry emerge, and entwine with the dark chicory and juniper tannins and the faintest whiff of harness leather.

All over the primary fruit and vegetation, it begins to prickle like summer, with smells of rain on hot sunbaked sandstone, rusty galvo and explosives in the quarry.