Mission Codename Comunist Plot
“What a wine!” - Antonio Galloni
That’s right, Galloni, the founder of Piedmont Report and Vinous, “was deeply impressed with the 2020 Barolos from Diego Conterno.” And so were we!
At 94-points, 40% OFF, and UNDER $40?! Today’s wine WAY over delivers.
Barolo… One of the greatest wine regions in the world. A tiny pocket of hills in Piemonte, exemplifying unique wines that paradoxically combine the elegance of a single-variety, single-vineyard style reminiscent of Burgundy with a muscularity, power, and firm structure unlike any other.
And yet, shamefully, we have not featured one since early January?! We are more than making that up now.
It opens with a charming volley of ripe Ranier cherry and strawberry, with base notes of earth, savory herbs, and a slightly sanguine hint. Fine tannins frame the fruit beautifully, belying the wines youth with approachable charisma. But there is plenty of stuffing and balance to see the wine improve for up to a decade!
It’s a perfect example of why we’ve long admired the wines of Diego Conterno. (Savvy Operatives will know his name immediately from previous missions and already be checking out!)
His mentor, Beppe Colla of Prunotto, was one of the first to spearhead single vineyard wines from the region (like this one!), ultimately leading to the recognition of around 170 unique sites. Diego went on to co-found Conterno-Fantino with his cousin Guido, earning incredible accolades spearheading a modernist style of Barolo, with more intense macerations and aging in new oak.
BUT… not content, he sold his shares at the turn of the millennium and struck out on his own. Starting from scratch, he made wine from his family’s holdings that thread the needle between traditional poise & structure and modern ripeness & perfume. Opening a winery just down the road from Giacomo Conterno in the village of Monforte d’Alba, joined by his son Stefano, he continues to make a name for himself.
You’ll notice this bottling is designated ‘del Comune di Monforte d’Alba’. Officially recognized in 2010, Diego Conterno was an early champion of this commune level approach. As Wine & Spirits recently highlighted, “Barolo del Comune wines create a bridge between Barolo classico wines (those made with grapes grown anywhere in the Barolo DOCG zone) and those from one of the 170 single-site MGAs (official single Crus).” They continue, “Just as Burgundy fans might prefer the villages wines of Chambolle-Musigny over those from Gevrey-Chambertin, Barolo lovers can view comune wines as a way to appreciate the characteristics typical of wines from Barolo’s different communes”
The commune of Monforte d’Alba? It’s the southern most of the region, known for its robust, powerful wines. Conterno blends fruit from two east-facing vineyards, the cooler morning sun helping the wine maintain its balance and finesse, as a counterpoint to this intensity.
When we popped the bottle, everyone at HQ loved it. The most veteran palates appreciated its subtlety, complexity, and poise. Meanwhile, less-seasoned agents raved about its perfume, concentration, fruit, and structure.
This is a standout vintage. Galloni again, calls out this vintage’s offerings from Diego Conterno for their, “notable depth married to a feeling of dynamic energy that satisfies both intellectual and hedonistic desires.”
Or, as James Suckling put it, “There’s something special about the 2020 Barolo. It’s been a long time since Italy’s famous wine region has produced such beautifully approachable Nebbiolos.” It’s too true – this wine shows beautifully now, but also has the structure to improve, building in complexity in the cellar.
It delivers so much more power, nuance, and age-ability for the price than any we have seen in some time. (PRO TIP – pick up at least a case!)
We are already buying some for ourselves. You should too, while it lasts!
94 Points – Vinous “I was deeply impressed with the 2020 Barolos from Diego Conterno. If anything, the two more ‘modest’ wines in the range are the most interesting because they both overdeliver, while the vineyard-designates are important Barolos, as they should be. In the 2020s, I see notable depth married to a feeling of dynamic energy that satisfies both intellectual and hedonistic desires. These typically firm, classically built Barolos can be a bit forbidding young. The 2020s are not quite as tannic as most Barolos here have been in the past, but they do have quite a bit of baby fat. That will melt away with time in bottle for those who prefer greater subtlety rather than what the wines have to offer today. The 2020 Barolo del Comune di Monforte d’Alba is a very serious wine. Deeply pitched notes of balsamic, menthol, licorice, spice, chocolate and blackberry soar out of the glass. A wine of depth and textural drive, the 2020 captures tons of Monforte character. Soft tannins (for a young Barolo) make the 2020 surprisingly —I should say shockingly—accessible. What a wine! Drink 2025-2035.”
What the Winery Says
2020 Barolo del Comune di Monforte d'Alba
- Winemakers
- Diego & Stefano Conterno
- Varietal
- 100% Nebbiolo
- Vintage
- 2020
- Alcohol
- 14.5%
- Commune
- Monforte d’Alba, Barolo, Piedmont
- Soils
- Clay with limestone and marl
- Elevation
- 960-1,140 feet above sea level
- Age of vines
- 20 years
- Aging
- 24 months
- Vessels
- Stockinger 50HL oak botti and cement tank
About the Winery
Diego Conterno