“I was deeply impressed with the 2020 Barolos from Diego Conterno.” – Vinous

Likewise! Barolo… One of the greatest wine regions in the world. A tiny pocket of hills in Piemonte, exemplifying unique wines that paradoxically combine the elegance of a single-variety, single-vineyard style reminiscent of Burgundy with a muscularity, power, and firm structure unlike any other.

And yet, shamefully, we have not featured one in months?! We are more than making that up now.

Double 95-points and an Editor’s Choice from Wine Enthusiast, today’s wine opens with a barrage of concentrated cherry and strawberries, with undercurrents of rose petal, earth, and savory herbs. The tannins are firm and present, framing an intense barrage of flavors that culminate in a lingering, almost haunting finish. And you won’t find it anywhere else under $50!

It’s a perfect example of why we’ve long admired the wines of Diego Conterno. (Savvy Operatives will know his name immediately from previous missions and add this wine to their cart now.)

His mentor, Beppe Colla of Prunotto, was one of the first to spearhead single vineyard wines from the region (like this one!), ultimately leading to the recognition of around 170 unique sites. Diego went on to co-found Conterno-Fantino with his cousin Guido, earning incredible accolades spearheading a modernist style of Barolo, with more intense macerations and aging in new oak.

BUT… not content, he sold his shares at the turn of the millennium and struck out on his own. Starting from scratch, he made wine from his family’s holdings that thread the needle between traditional poise & structure and modern ripeness & perfume. Opening a winery just down the road from Giacomo Conterno in the village of Monforte d’Alba, joined by his son Stefano, he continues to make a name for himself. Leading to this powerhouse…

When we popped the bottle, everyone at HQ loved it. The most veteran palates appreciated its subtlety, complexity, and poise. Meanwhile, less-seasoned agents raved about its perfume, concentration, fruit, and structure. That evening, for fun, we tasted it with a local Master of Wine, and they were similarly impressed by its muscular palate and firm tannins.

As if that’s not enough, Antonio Galloni, the founder of the Piedmont Report and Vinous, praised their wines this vintage as showing, “notable depth married to a feeling of dynamic energy that satisfies both intellectual and hedonistic desires.”

A single vineyard, Le Coste di Monforte is in the southernmost steep slopes of the appellation, just to the east of the village. The family’s plot hugs a southern-facing aspect about 1200 ft above sea level, with brilliant sun exposure, well-drained Helvetian soils (sandstone and sand) and plenty of wind – all of which conspire to bolster ripeness, density, and concentration. It produces the muscle, grip, and gravitas that is the hallmark of this well-respected Cru.

This is a standout vintage. As James Suckling put it, “There’s something special about the 2020 Barolo. It’s been a long time since Italy’s famous wine region has produced such beautifully approachable Nebbiolos.” It’s too true – this wine shows well now, but also has the structure to improve, building in complexity over the next 10-15 years, easy!

It delivers so much more power, nuance, and age-ability for the price than any we have seen in a long time. And we are always on the lookout for Barolo. We are already buying some for ourselves. You should too, while it lasts!

95 Points – Vinous “I was deeply impressed with the 2020 Barolos from Diego Conterno. If anything, the two more ‘modest’ wines in the range are the most interesting because they both overdeliver, while the vineyard-designates are important Barolos, as they should be. In the 2020s, I see notable depth married to a feeling of dynamic energy that satisfies both intellectual and hedonistic desires. These typically firm, classically built Barolos can be a bit forbidding young. The 2020s are not quite as tannic as most Barolos here have been in the past, but they do have quite a bit of baby fat. That will melt away with time in bottle for those who prefer greater subtlety rather than what the wines have to offer today. The 2020 Barolo Le Coste di Monforte is redolent of iron, game, incense, scorched earth, blood orange, dark fruit and tobacco. A potent, strapping Barolo, the 2020 is certainly not for the timid. It offers tons of Monforte power, brawn and muscle. A few years in the cellar is an absolute must. Drink 2026-2040.”

95 Points, Editor’s Choice – Wine Enthusiast’ “The wine offers elegant aromas of rose, red plum, and macerated cherry, entwined with incense, camphor, and a hint of savory spice, gently touched by an undertone of truffle. On the palate, the fruit is vibrant and pure, with savory accents subtly enhancing the experience. Ripe and balanced tannins make the wine accessible now yet also indicate its capacity to age gracefully.”