Mission Codename U kan teach old vines new tricks
“UKAN unquestionably offers loads of pleasure.” – Jeb Dunnuck
That remark helped sell out this Wine Spies exclusive’s 2019 and inaugural 2018 vintages. And our Rioja-starved hearts have been waiting for more ever since.
The wait is over. But with such a small allocation, a high sellout risk prevails when a Rioja this good is nearly 60% OFF with double 95 points.
(Plus, a 97 in the annual authoritative guidebook Guía Vinos Gourmets.)
If modern Tempranillo masters such Muga and Artadi get your heart racing, this is your jam. When I visited this young winery a couple of years ago, I was blown away by the meticulous attention to detail and their impeccable wines. The genius behind UKAN is none other than the Eguren cousins, Koldo and Eduardo, who represent the 5th generation behind cult wines such as Sierra Cantabria with roots back to the 1800s. Obviously, fine winemaking is in the DNA, setting the bar high, as proven by massive scores in just 3 vintages.
With family roots running deep, the sources that make UKAN are as good as they get. Planted in 1940-1966, the three vineyards are all high-elevation in the smallest and most sought-after region of Rioja Alavesa, resulting in low yields, high skin-to-juice ratios, high but refined tannins, as well as intense and concentrated flavors. While the monstrous bruisers of Artadi represent one camp of extreme modernity in Rioja and López de Heredia symbolizes the opposite extreme of ultra-traditionalism, UCAN’s style hits that delicate balance between them.
Incredible nuance and finesse, as well as great complexity, while it still feels young and with potential to improve for a long time in the bottle. This is a breath of FRESH Rioja air, that somehow feels Bordelaise and Californian, too.
This wine is exactly what Vinous means when they say “Today, Rioja has two speeds. The first is set by the big producers who are responsible for the region’s worldwide fame and its association with extensive oak aging. The second is the more dynamic side, where producers display pride in their place of origin and stylistic choices, more interested in bringing out individual characters than adhering to an established style.”
All that under $50?! While it lasts…
95 Points – Wine Enthusiast “Deep violet-red to the eye, this wine has a bouquet of blackberry, dark chocolate and caramel. It is luscious on the palate, offering polished tannins wrapped around black cherry, mocha, anisette, violet and butterscotch flavors that wind down to a licorice-infused finish.”
95 Points – Tim Atkin MW “The Eguren cousins are doing very exciting things at their urban Ukan winery, typified by the high quality of this pure Tempranillo from the three old-vine Laguardia parcels of El Estade, Valderromán and Zarzamochuelo. Subtle and stylish with nuanced oak, lively acidity, focused bramble and black cherry fruit and polished, textured tannins. Drink 2024-2030.”
What the Winery Says
2020 Rioja
- Winemaker
- Eduardo Eguren
- Proprietor
- Koldo Eguren
- Enologist
- Iñaki Magaña
- Varietal
- 100% Tempranillo
- Vintage
- 2020
- Alcohol
- 14.5%
- Appellation
- Rioja DOCa, Spain
- Subregions
- Laguardia & Lapuebla, Rioja Alavesa
- Vineyards (planted in)
- Valderromán (1945), El Estado (1966), Zarzamochuelo (1940)
- Soils
- Limestone & Clay
- Total acidity
- 5.23 g/L
- pH
- 3.62
- Aging
- 16 months
- Barrels
- 100% new French oak
About the Winery
UKAN