Mission Codename Barolissimo
Today we bring you DOUBLE BAROLO VISION! We’re leading off with a WIA for the immensely popular half bottles of Marcarini AND when that is gone we have a small amount of a 93 point Conterno-Fantino on deck. These two wines represent two distinct styles of Barolo - traditional vs modern. Only about a dozen cases of each, so move quickly because they will not last!
Over the past year, Piedmont has been, by far, the most popular “NEW TO TWS” region that we frequented.
And nothing celebrates Piedmont like a CRU BAROLO!
Splits from the mythical Brunate vineyard for just 25 bucks?!
Jump on this one first we suggest, then come back to check out this cool Vinous video special here from the top producers who brilliantly walk us through the Legend of Brunate.
Yeah, the very same source by Rinaldi for example, another traditionalist like Marcarini, fetches $200+ a bottle IF you can find some. This Cru is the epitome of the longevity and intensity of Nebbiolo that make Barolo, Barbaresco, and Piedmont one of the epicenters of classic collectibles. Imagine having these half bottles around for ANY weeknight that calls for a Barolo, could pop one or a few every night!
Marcarini was the first to bottle a single-vineyard Brunate back in 1958 and well-kept examples of that wine are said to still drink like a dream. The brilliant reviews below seem to have overlooked what a little extra time in the bottle can do to these youthfully tannic beasts, they do mellow out faster than modern examples can. That is the case here, as the descriptors of etherealness are spot on.
We’d certainly add a few points to these scores today, elevating it to what Vinous says, “Marcarini remains one of the best values in traditionally made, cellar-worthy Barolo. His Brunate is fabulous… The estate’s Barolos remain some of the most fairly priced, traditionally made wines in Piedmont.”
Regardless, you will not regret having these around as they are the most affordable ticket to profound single-vineyard Barolo.
By “fairly priced” Galloni means under $100. Brunate for $25 a half is unheard of. Only on The Wine Spies… so Carpe diem Operatives!
91 Points – Wine Spectator
“Like a garden after rain, this smells like mint, floral, dusty cherry and wet earth. Licorice and sandalwood notes chime in as this builds to a lingering aftertaste. Elegantly rustic, in a traditional style. Best from 2022 through 2035.”
90 Points – Wine Enthusiast
“Star anise, clove and menthol aromas come to the forefront on this vibrant red. It’s taut and linear, offering sour cherry, pomegranate and licorice alongside firm acidity and tight, polished tannins. Drink 2020–2026.”
90 Points – Decanter
“The sweet, intense raspberry nose has purity of fruit and finesse. It’s quite concentrated, with a sleek, seamless texture and considerable weight of fruit. Moderate tannins give some structure, though this is no heavyweight. Quite long.”
What the Winery Says
2014 Brunate Barolo DOCG 375ml
- Armando Cordero
- Proprietor / grower
- Manuel Marchetti
- 100% Nebbiolo
- La Morra, Barolo DOCG, Piedmont
- Cru Brunate
- Kober 5BB – 420 A
- Plant density
- 4,000 plants per hectare
- 300 m above sea level
- South to southwest
- Calcareous, argillaceous with magnesium
- Vine age
- Planted 1978-1987
- 24 months
- 100% neutral 20-40hl Slovenian oak casks