“Diego and Stefano Conterno have put their small estate on the map in a relatively short amount of time. These beautifully translucent, traditionally made Barolos have so much to offer.” - Antonio Galloni

Wow.

Galloni continues… “I would start by exploring the entry-level Barolos, as they do a wonderful job of conveying the house style and the personality of Monforte, while also being relatively approachable.”

He’s right. The whole lineup is stupendous, but this “entry-level” Barolo knocked our socks off.

All the grandeur one would expect from a cult off the bat CONTERNO in the mid $30s??!!

And don’t let that “entry-level” bit fool you. It’s a blend of 3 celebrated Crus of Monforte d’Alba most Piemontese winemakers dream of getting fruit from; Ginestra, San Giovanni, and Bricco San Pietro. In the hands of a master, the sum becomes greater than the parts, nonetheless.

Operatives who’ve been us over the years will recall our days with back-to-back sellouts from Conterno-Fantino, which is Diego’s old stomping grounds. In Barolo, the pendulum swings wide, advocates of traditionalism on one side with minimal intervention via a lighter hand, and those at the very opposite, modernists who ripen Nebbiolo to optimal levels, then expose it to 100+ percent new oak to smooth things out over time. While Conterno-Fantino was a textbook modernist, when Diego broke out to own his own domain, he reset himself as a traditionalist.

This wine though, we must say, for a vintage Vinous describes as “light in structure, body and overall intensity” is incredibly rich and concentrated, even from a traditionalist’s standpoint. We agree with Vinous, not touching it for a couple of years is wise, as the open bottle took days to shed those iron-clad telltale tannins, and what emerged was BREATHTAKING. Especially if you have the cellar, and the patience to wait a decade or two!

Inky ruby, with a brilliant crimson edge. As it aerates, layers upon layers leap out of the glass, with the best of pure red fruits, plum sauce, candied orange peel, and incense. The mouthfeel is luxurious and equally layered, like a skyscraper, given a backbone of tall acidity and many colorful facades alternating between berries, spices, and herbs, savory, saline, as well as mineral notes. Almost too much going on as the finish crescendos through the clouds, authoritatively, decidedly pleading for the richest, creamiest dishes that are concealed behind layers of freshly shaved white truffles. Should you splurge on the precious ingredients this deserves to be served alongside, trust us, the best value on that table will be the wine itself, thanks to the tremendous deal this is. We scooped up every bottle of it there was, now it’s your turn.

Pile up!

94 Points – Decanter

“Diego Conterno is an ex-partner of Conterno Fantino and founded his own estate in 2003. He manages 7.5 hectares in Monforte d’Alba. Bright ruby in colour - no garnet - this has complex layers on the nose of dried cherry and darker cranberry, with vibrant rose petal, tar and camphor, the nose has layers and complexity. Firm and austere on the palate, it has bracing acidity in a tight-knit structure, with an assertive blood orange flavour and an austere finish with the acidity remerging to add refreshment. Built to age. Drinking window 2021-2040.”

92 Points – Antonio Galloni’s Vinous

“The 2017 Barolo is a very pretty, gracious Barolo that will drink well upon release. Aromatic and lifted, but with plenty of structure beneath, the 2017 is a great introduction to the estate’s wines. Dried herbs, sweet pipe tobacco, cedar, mint and pine lend quite a bit of aromatic nuance to this expressive, mid-weight Barolo from Conterno. Terrific. Drink 2024-2034.”