Swoosh goes the Altare, all sold out.

Inevitable though, given the master’s touch. Fear not, you thirsty Italiano, we have a Double Agent lined up on this Noir’s Birthday/Nebbiolo Friday.

Does the name Davide Fregonese ring any bells? We blew through a couple of their Cru Barolos back in the winter. Even their original $ 90-a-bottle prices were stupendous deals for the quality they offer.

All true Italian wine fans stash such Barolo cherries away as they hunt them down. The trouble is holding yourself back from depleting them fast… and their prices keep creeping up to Burgundian heights, too.

Well, here’s the solution, pile up on Piedmont’s best-kept secret from the same grape, Langhe Nebbiolo, when made by the right people like Altare, or by ones-to-watch, like Fregonese. While Langhe Nebbiolos by heralded masters such as Mascarello or Rinaldi nowadays fetch over $100 a bottle, you can steal this one today at $27, just like the Altare, and we all know that this too will not last.

Davide Fregonese dreamt of producing high-quality Barolo for many years: “I rediscovered a deep sense of belonging to my homeland, along with a strong call from my roots in Piedmont and my most authentic passions.” He purchased a small plot in the famed Cerretta (alongside the legendary Giovanni Rosso who consults here) and set out to make a fuller style of Serralunga d’Alba from the richer soils.

Here’s a fun fact, Fregonese calls his company Bugia Nen, which in Piemontese means ‘do not move.’ It’s an expression from the Battle of Assietta of 1747, when the determination of 4,800 soldiers stopped the advance of 50,000 French, under the command of Giovanni Battista Cacherano. The General’s command was clearly not to give way! Bugia Nen is more than a name to Fregonese and his crew: it’s a tribute to obstinacy and determination. And we thank him for it!

Shows a rich, hearty, raspberry nose that’s fully ripe. The same is true of the palate, it’s lush and velvety, a Langhe Nebbiolo of depth, weight, and complexity, with spicy notes mingling with moderate acidity. It will surely go the distance.

Unlike Altare for whom there are volumes written, you won’t find much on Fregonese, a newcomer of sorts, and an under-the-radar gem of a producer who makes wines every bit as delicious. Trust us.