“One of the quiet stars making exceptional wines…” – Jeb Dunnuck

Ugh. As good spies do, we get all protective when the word gets out involving our little discoveries. Not that we don’t like to share, but when production is tiny and a winery we had a crush on way before the world knew of them starts getting massive recognition (like 96 points plus a couple of 94s in this case) it gets harder to bring Operatives the best deals we can.

We have Jeb Dunnuck to thank for a recent spotlight where he writes “Relative newcomer Mark Lussier is definitely one to watch, one of the quiet stars making exceptional wines from the region right now… Lussier interned at Napa’s Pahlmeyer in 2015 and knew immediately that working in wine would be his next focus. After a stint with Williams Selyem, he launched Lussier in 2019 to make Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Anderson Valley and Mendocino Ridge. Based in Calistoga, he works in particular with high-elevation sites above the Anderson Valley, including Roma’s, Golden Fleece, Signal Ridge, and Mariah, using native ferments and a good percentage of whole-cluster grapes.”

These Pinots give off Anthill Farms, Littorai, or Williams Selyem (well, duh) vibes at a fraction of their cost, and if you’ve had the previous releases, you already know what to expect. Considering the total production of around 3-5 barrels, we’re still scratching our heads about how we got ANY to begin with. Granted, it wasn’t much.

He takes a minimalist style approach, starting with sourcing from organic vineyards on steep hillsides at 2,000 feet above sea level. He takes the hand-harvested fruit and ferments using native yeasts, including a healthy 40% whole clusters in the mix. Next comes a modest 11 months in used French oak. The result is a gorgeous wine with soaring aromatics and playful and dramatic flavors. Bright and juicy red fruit comes bursting to the surface. The high acidity ensures a long road ahead.

G.W. Lussier served seven years in the U.S. Army, with combative tours to Iraq and Afghanistan, before returning home to the Napa Valley. A chance encounter at a bocce game opened a winemaking door at Pahlmeyer before moving over to Williams Selyem, where you just can’t get any better direction. Today, Lussier produces just three single-vineyard Pinot Noirs from Roma’s, Signal Ridge, Gold Fleece…

Speaking of… and while it lasts!

96 Points – Jeb Dunnuck “Beguiling aromatics of rose, violet, and stone accent a considerable core of tangy acidity and hints of orange, raspberry, and rhubarb in the 2021 Pinot Noir Golden Fleece, which is a sturdy red with a thick tannic structure and well-integrated oak. Savory minerality threads throughout the ethereal nature of the wine, a timeless classic of fantastic intrigue. Enjoy through 2036.”

94 Points – Decanter “This tiny production—only two barrels, or just 50 cases in total—is quite a hidden gem. The wine offers a distinct herbal character, with sage notes adding earthy complexity. The 50% whole-cluster fermentation contributes to the palate’s excellent structure and texture. The finish is long and satisfying, showcasing a well-balanced acid profile with zesty citrus peel and fresh raspberries. Drink 2024-2034.”

94 Points – James Suckling “Lively, spicy and nervy, this wine almost jumps out of the glass because it has so much energy. Red cherries, sour cherries, rooibos tea, cinnamon, black tea and cardamom weave in and out of velvety tannins and a medium body. So fresh and linear. Drink now or hold.”