“These are among the most inspiring wines produced in Spain today.” – Wine Advocate

Deep Cover: A New Frontier!

Naturally, a project called Comando G catches the eye of a spy. Comando, for how incredibly challenging the environment is for making great wine, and the G could be said is for Gómez, García, Gredos, Granite, Garnacha, and Greatness… As Decanter sums it, “The project led by Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi and Fernando García inspired a new generation of Spanish winemakers, put the mountains of Gredos on the fine wine map and showed the coolest side of Garnacha.”

So, if you’re looking to experience a new frontier made with the near impossible labor of love, the most rugged terrain and terroir necessitate, this is your jam. If you’re looking for a flashy, oaky, big, bold red, it’s definitely not that. As Wine Advocate says, this wine is decidedly new, but it pays homage to a classic like Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape. With that, it shares the “Barolo” and “Gevrey” dimensions.

Back to Decanter: “Meaning is indeed key to understanding Comando G. There’s a programmatic, almost ideological component to the project. Landi and García’s motivations are deeply rooted in the socio-economic phenomena that led to the abandonment of old vineyards in Gredos and the lack of appreciation for the local grape and wines. Their shared accomplishment is - more than a steady output of some of Europe’s finest Garnachas - the new light shed on the uniqueness of a region and of a lost viticultural heritage.”

Continuing, “Today, they rub shoulders on importer and restaurant lists with some of the most sought-after in the world. Most are sold on allocation only. The recognition and commercial success eventually demanded and allowed Landi and García to focus solely on Comando G; both have been exclusively dedicated to the project since 2021. A team of 20 people now work the 16.3ha that yield the fruit for Comando G’s wines – a true jeweler’s work in which no compromises are made, and no corners are cut. All vineyards are painstakingly tended to by hand, ploughed by horse, soft-pruned and farmed according to a combination of organic and biodynamic principles… Comando G has indeed played a pivotal role in Spanish wine - and in the appreciation of Garnacha - in the last decade and a half, and by a younger generation of wine lovers. At the crossroads of classicism and unpretentious cool, Landi and García have introduced a new audience – of both drinkers and collectors – to a finer side of Spanish wines.”

To say that these neo-cult wines are in high demand is putting it mildly. We had to risk some limbs, and an unnamed Agent barely survived for putting these 10 cases in front of you. Not much else needs to be said, really. Snag much as you can, and…

Open your mind, let it be blown.

96 Points – Wine Advocate “I tasted the latest bottled wines from Comando G that are hitting the market now, the regional and village wines from 2022 and the single-vineyard 2021s. The two vintages are extremely different, a more Mediterranean 2022 and a cooler, more Atlantic 2021. This is the finest collection of wines I have ever tasted from Comando G, each of them with a different personality, more and more evident each year. The 2022 Navatalgordo, a village red from the village of the same name, is one of two completely new village wines from 2022, as the one from Rozas is an evolution of the Rozas 1er Cru. This was produced to reflect the character of the village, showcasing wines with tension and sharpness. It comes from soils with lots of quartz and was made with their own grapes and ones purchased from growers that have been working together with them at an average 1,100 meters in altitude. It fermented with full clusters in concrete and oak vats with 35- to 40-day maceration, and its élevage was in concrete and oak foudres. This village produces wines with lower alcohol, lower pH and higher acidity, even in warmer years like 2022. And the wine has more color, even if the alcohol is lower, from the cold. It’s a wine that needs more time, more Barolo with a chalky character and slow development. It has a very floral and expressive nose, with electric acidity, and is tense, serious. This is the 2022 that feels less like 2022… Only with time in the glass did it develop some meaty aromas (Bovril?) and spiciness, which pointed at a warmer year and more Gevrey character. It has a contained 13% alcohol and a pH of around 3.0! Incredible parameters for a year like 2022. Drink 2024-2034.”