Deep Cover: An example of what Wine Advocate describes as “Some of the most elegant and soulful wines in the Southern Rhône.”

Which is why “this wine doesn’t just walk the line between power and finesse -* it carves it with intent.” per Wine Enthusiast.

How, you may ask, do they accomplish that feat? Wine Advocate explains, “Young Benjamin Gras appears firmly in control of the winemaking at this benchmark estate put on the map by his father, Yves. The estate has been certified biodynamic by Demeter beginning in 2017. Most of the bunches are still destemmed (60% to 70%), and the wines undergo a cold maceration of about a week prior to ferments that max out around 25 degrees Celsius. Maceration times and extraction have been steadily reined in by Benjamin, who emphasizes elegance over power. Most of the wines age in foudres, although portions of several wines spend time in amphorae. From an estate that used to be about ripeness and power, it has evolved rather quickly into one that’s more about elegance and terroir expression.”

Couple of well-deserved 95-97 scores aside, Gras cut his teeth at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Vega Sicilia to make wine like this. It defines, class, and grace in one, like hardly ever seen in the same place this harmoniously. Rhône fans damn well know that a Gigondas in the right hands can shame many a Châteauneuf-du-Pape or cult Paso Robles reds. Truly a desert island wine.

A reminder that Santa Duc is a Martine’s discovery. The late and great Martine Saunier was the first lady importer in the US when she started in 1979. About a decade ago, The Wall Street Journal crowned her “A Wine Importer Who Turned Bottles Into Stars” pointing out that “Martine Saunier pioneered an import business that’s brought Americans some of the greatest wines of Burgundy and the Rhône.” She introduced us to Jayer, Leroy, Rayas… should we go on?

All WE know this is not going to be around for long at the best price anywhere…

97 Points, Cellar Selection – Wine Enthusiast “Made from 100% Grenache, this wine doesn’t just walk the line between power and finesse—it carves it with intent. The nose hits with a tight, complex weave of red cherry, rhubarb, pomegranate, violet, and wild thyme—both inviting and serious. The palate is taut and fresh, where white pepper and crushed stone thread through the fruit like static, adding grit to the gloss. Fine tannins wrap around the red core, giving it a kind of poised tension, while that marl-soil edge brings a mineral clarity that keeps things lifted and connected to its terroir. It’s grounded and built to hold through 2035+. Aerate now if you want a glimpse, but make sure to hold a few more in the cellar.”

95 Points – Wine Advocate “A new bottling, the 2022 Clos des Hospices is crafted from Grenache Noir planted in the Derrière Vieille lieu-dit, where a double grafting program with white grape varieties was implemented. It reveals a slightly reductive yet elegant bouquet of dark cherries, violet, pepper and floral notes. The medium-bodied palate is both elegant and juicy, with impressive depth at the core, a tense mid-palate and fine-grained tannins that flow into a long, ethereal finish, enhanced by chalky dry extract in the aftertaste. As one of the tensest Gigondas in Benjamin Gras’s lineup, it shows remarkable aging potential. Drink 2024-2044.”