Mission Codename Polz position
“Wherever in the world Sauvignon is grown, even the very best must be measured against the best of the Styrians.” – Wine Advocate
Appy Friday, everyone!
We know as a loyal operative you are the kind of open-minded connoisseur that appreciates the surprise of finding crazy complex, world-class quality wines from all corners of the globe. This wine? It’s from the equivalent of a Premier Cru site in one of the world’s great unsung regions for the variety.
It’s not us saying that… it’s Wine Advocate. Oh, and it’s under $40!!!
This cool climate white scored a scalding 95 Points from native Austrian press, backed up by double 94s from top US critics!
If you were lucky enough to score some of their library vintage offering last year, then you know. This is a rare cellar-worthy find that’s affordable enough to stock up while but built to last up to a decade or beyond.
The world of wine is vast, and there are still far-flung corners the produce exceptional wines that have yet to hit the mainstream. Styria (or Steiermark in German) is one of them. Located in Southern Austria, it is an out of the way wine region with a long history of quietly making some of the best dry white wines, especially Sauvignon Blanc, in the world. The
Wine Advocate explained a couple of years ago, “For many years, Styria in the south of Austria had not played a role in The Wine Advocate. Yet Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot varieties of the highest class are produced here, mostly on lime-rich as well as volcanic soils. Wherever in the world Sauvignon is grown, even the very best must be measured against the best of the Styrians gathered here.”
Within Styria, Polz is one of the best-of-the-best. “Although they started with only four hectares of vineyards in 1984, the estate of Walter and Eric Polz is today not only one of the largest but also one of the best-known in all of Styria,” explains Vinous. “Brothers Walter and Erich Polz have always produced very good to excellent wines, but with Erich’s son, Christoph, having taken the responsibility in the cellar (in 2011), the wines have become even more precise, fresh and elegant.” adds Wine Advocate.
The Theresienhöhe vineyard is a mouthful, even for German speakers. So it is thoughtfully nicknamed ‘Therese’. It is classified as the Styrian equivalent of a “Premier Cru” (1STK), or sometimes called Erste Lage.
While the terminology may seem complicated, let’s make it simple – imagine a white of the equivalent quality of a Premier Cru White Burgundy from a top Producer… for under $40. Now stop imagining.
At about 1600 ft above sea level, it’s one of the highest altitude sites in the region. While the sun exposure make for warm days, the high altitude meets cool air currents at night. This large day-to-night temperature swing allows the grapes to ripen slowly, developing rich, exotic fruit flavors while retaining a vibrant, razor-sharp, and refreshing acidity. The vines are deeply rooted in 400-million-year-old blue slate, its lack of water holding capacity causing them to struggle but creates a dense concentration easily matches the best of the Loire, Bordeaux, while giving the fruit a contrast of ripeness and herbaceousness that is unique to the terroir.
Compared head to head with some of the best (Dagueneau Pur Sang - $175, Vacheron L’Enclos des Remparts - $220, Ornellaia Bianco - $285, Haut-Brion Blanc - $900, Screaming Eagle - $3k+!) it becomes obvious what a value this wine is. We aren’t taking anything away from these classics… but if you like them (like we do), then this age-worthy gem will not disappoint. Especially at a mere $39?!
Lemony fresh, floral, and crystalline, the wine presents a purity and precision that is hard to define. Its crisp citrusy texture will grab your attention, its saline minerality will make your mouth water for more, while its complexity is but a glimpse of things to come! Wine Advocate saying it best, “This is an outstanding premier cru from the roof of South Styria. Highly recommended… Drink 2025-2040.”
We snapped up every bottle remaining. But it wasn’t much. If you enjoy crazy complex, world-class whites, grab a few for now and a few for the cellar ASAP!
95 Points – A La Carte Wein-Guide “Pale color; intense floral notes, cassis, stone fruit, kumquat; dense, vibrant structure; tightly knit finish; fine tannins; floral, cool spice.”
94 Points – Wine Advocate “From the coolest Polz vineyard at 500 meters in altitude in the Kitzeck-Sausal subregion, the stainless steel-fermented 2023 Ried Theresienhöhe Therese 1STK Sauvignon Blanc opens with clear, bright, precise and aromatic Sauvignon fruit with lemon nuances and saline notes. It’s impressively intense and complex, with perfectly integrated phenols and sur lie notes. Very elegant and perfectly round and juicy on the palate, this is a full-bodied, crystalline and saline Therese with yellow plum and peach aromas intertwined with fennel seed and floral/herbal nuances. The finish is long, saline and savory but also aromatic and always precise and fresh. This is an outstanding premier cru from the roof of South Styria. Highly recommended. 13% stated alcohol. Screw-cap closure. Drink 2025-2040.”
94 Points – James Suckling “Very fresh, showing lemons, grapefruit, black currants and hints of tobacco on the nose of this very pure, bright white. It’s cool, creamy and medium-bodied, with fruit and subtle smoky undertones. Long and very enjoyable. Drink now or hold. Screw cap.”
What the Winery Says
2023 'Therese' Ried Theresienhöhe Sauvignon Blanc
- Winemaker
- Christoph Polz
- Varietal
- 100% Sauvignon Blanc
- Vintage
- 2023
- Alcohol
- 13.0%
- Appellation
- Südsteiermark DAC, Austria
- Vineyard
- Theresienhöhe
- Aging
- 18 months
- Barrels
- 100% Stainless Steel
About the Winery
Polz