“A classic layered, seamless profile with outstanding length.” – Jeb Dunnuck

In the olden times, 60 ouvrées came to just over 2 hectares. An obsolete land measurement, some of Burgundy’s oldest sites have inherited this statement of how small they are in their names. This walled plot sits amid the Premier Cru of Les Caillerets, and it’s one of three Monopoles owned by Pousse d’Or.

What’s a Monopole? It’s a vineyard owned exclusively by one winery, which is very rare in Burgundy due to historical inheritance laws. There are only a handful of Monopole Crus in the region, representing the absolute pinnacle of the world’s most sought-after fine wines.

Per Decanter, “Without Volnay, there is simply no joy, declared historian Claude Courtépée in his 18th-century work on the Duchy of Burgundy. The delights of the wine from this village have been known since before the dukes constructed their château there in the 11th century, while today’s wine lovers are discovering them again thanks to the able work of a new generation of winemakers.” Which is exactly what we have here, a Volnay by that young generation that knows the value of true classics.

To put this rare opportunity into historical perspective, Decanter explains that “With a rich history spanning several centuries, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or is in the league of elite Burgundy estates with exceptional vineyard holdings across the region. The Domaine can trace its existence back to the 1100s and the Dukes of Burgundy who held all the land titles at the time.” The Grand Cru of Clos du Roi too was originally owned by the Dukes of Burgundy. When the last duke, Charles the Bold, died in 1477, the French King Louis XI seized the plot, coining its historic royal name. These days, according to foremost Burgundy expert Winehog, “with technical ingenuity and vinification perfection, Pousse d’Or produces some hedonistic marvels with energy and the blessings of true vins d’emotion.”

Now that gets us all emotional!

For the vintage here, Jeb assures, “On the style of the 2023s, these are more classic expressions of Burgundy with round, supple profiles… I followed all of these wines over multiple days, and they held up beautifully, which speaks well for their balance and aging potential.”

Only a couple of cases… sadly; that’s just how great Burgundy rolls.

94 Points – Jeb Dunnuck “Red and black fruits, spice, violets, blood orange, and floral nuances all emerge from the 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de 60 Ouvrées Monopole, the well-known Monopole within the Caillerets Dessus that remains the Domaine’s flagship. It’s medium-bodied, with a remarkably focused, balanced mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It has a classic layered, seamless profile with outstanding length. Aged 12 months in French oak with 20% new barrels followed by six months in stainless steel, it’s beautifully done and will keep for 20 years. Drink 2026-2046.”