“The more white Burgundies I tried, the more I lusted after the Western Australian alternatives I came across during a visit there.” – Jancis Robinson MW

Deep Cover: Throwback Tuesday with one of the greatest Chardonnays in the world!

Check this out.

That was exactly 10 years and 10 vintages ago today.

What has changed? Inflation, for one. Still though, 98 points for $97 is a big deal. Throw in quad 97 points on top and the truth begins to emerge…

Decanter explains: “One of the early pioneers of Western Australia’s Margaret River wine region, Leeuwin Estate quickly became famous for its now iconic Art Series Chardonnay, after being ranked top in a blind tasting 44 years ago.”

Did you know that American wine hero Robert Mondavi had a lot to do with this wine? That and more of the history and legacy are in this cool video tasting with the venerable James Halliday, a must-watch for deep Aussie accent fans:

If that’s too long for your taste, advance to 30:00 when Halliday calls the 2022 “spectacular, one of Australia’s greatest Chardonnays ever made.”

What else remains to say? May not seem like a no-brainer, but think about it: can you get a Montrachet anywhere near $100 these days? Grab some and thank us lay-tuh maaate.

98 Points – Wine Advocate “The 2022 Art Series Chardonnay is floral, yellow-accented and spicy. This is characteristic of the 2022 vintage, and I am glad to see that play out in the wine. There are similarities between 2020 and 2022, the latter being slightly warmer and earlier than the former, and I far prefer the latter in the context of white wines in Margaret River—reds too, actually. This has chamomile tea, white peach, nuts and saline acidity. It’s spectacular. Drink 2026-2047.”

97 Points – Decanter “It’s still a baby, but there is no question of what lies within. Tuberose, lemon leaf, green spice, preserved lemon, toasty oak, cracker and perfumed white peach. On the palate, flavour is concentrated and intense, and combined with the firm structure of this wine, powerful enough to hold up to the oak. There’s vibrant, lacy acidity, ripe and powerful Gingin fruit, yet in no way edging towards fleshy. It’s voluminous and complex, but laser-beam precision keeps things taut. The palate blooms with opulent florals, doughnut peach, nectarine skin, lemon blossom, crushed roast cashew, orange blossom and crushed citrus leaf. A silvery salinity on the finish tickles. A wine of polish, precision and immense power, yet all in balance. This is one for the distance. Drink 2025-2040.”

97 Points – James Halliday “If you were sitting quietly in a corner, contemplating the vicissitudes of life, and a glass of this exceptional Chardonnay came your way, well, all would be very well indeed. And you’d perk up. It’s a wine that tends to be scintillating in youth, driven by all manner of citrus flavours – lemon, pink grapefruit with a dash of lime but also a mille-feuille of leesy lusciousness, oak spices and a moreish savouriness. It seems powerful and explosive with its acidity, drive and energy yet manages to remain classy and complex.”

97 Points – James Suckling “Another exceptional release for this famed Australian Chardonnay. Highly strung and tightly wound with mineral-edged aromas of lemon peel, crushed stones and sea spray as well as grapefruit, struck match and white orchard fruit. The palate is still reserved and quiet—remarkable, considering the 11 months in barrel with biweekly lees-stirring. A wine that always needs time but consistently presents as flashy yet vertical. Excellent. Drink or hold but give it some air beforehand.”

97 Points – Winepilot “This iconic Australian Chardonnay never allows standards to drop, and this is yet another stellar effort from the great Chardonnay production line. A shimmering pale lemon, with notes of spices, lemon curd, ginger, pink grapefruit, lemongrass, florals, peaches, nectarines, jasmine, and stone fruits. There is a whiff of smoky oak as well, and integration is proceeding well. There is complete balance here, with focus and energy. The wine is still very young, and it will certainly be better if you can wait for two or three years before opening—then enjoy it for a further 10–15 years. There is juicy acidity here, with a supple texture and a long and lingering finish, along which the intensity is maintained for the full journey. A cracker.”