Domaine de Courcel
2015 Pommard Les Croix Noires 1er Cru
Pinot Noir •Les Croix Noires 1er Cru
Here’s a bona fide cult collectible Red Burgundy at a mere fraction of what it’s worth! From the LEGENDARY 2015 vintage, when we saw the very few cases of this we snagged before they could count them again, it was hard to believe how it remained at the importer’s library stash that long, as almost all 2015 Red Burgundies that truly matter have long taken been under connoisseurs’ possessions worldwide.
Move over Joe, that bottle is MINE! Seriously, in all seriousness, this is serious stuff. Don’t look at these bottles for too long as they will disappear like the tiny vignerons with massive followings who don’t have time for visitors in rural Burgundy do.
Yves Confuron brings his generations of familial excellence from Vosne-Romanée to this Pommard institution that has been under the wings of the Courcel family for over 4 centuries. The results are evidently stellar. For $85, not $185 as this is worth that huge price even, you can get in on the greatness of the VERY BEST of Burgundy, this is your opportunity.
Deep ruby with cherry red accents. The nose gifts the taster with dusty red berries smothered in rich currant and plum undertones. Gushing fruit with finesse fills the palate and an ultra-fine tannic grip emerges, supporting the juicy acidity. The core of tightly wound intensity goes echoing effortlessly for over a minute on the tightly wound yet sublime finish. Give it some time or air, and savor with wild mushrooms, rich sauces, earthy cuts of meat, charcuterie, or the ultimate pairing: Boeuf Bourguignon!
Praise and press? As space allows, here are a few… first on the Vintage:
Decanter calls it; “An ‘extraordinary’ vintage throughout the Côte d’Or… Is Burgundy 2015 one to buy? Definitely, as this is the best vintage for red wines since 2005 and 2010. It is hard to imagine anyone being disappointed with the 2015s.”
Wine Advocate echoes; “Make no mistake, 2015 Burgundy is a great vintage, and quality firmly resides with the red wines.” And Wine Enthusiast sums it up; “Burgundy’s 2015 Pinot Noir vintage is something special, shaping up to be one of the great vintages of the century. The only downside to this landmark vintage? Finding and buying these wines. Prices at the top continue to skyrocket, way beyond almost all red Bordeaux or Napa. Supplies of the finest bottlings are limited, and importers often fight over small quantities. But I urge you to persevere. These are great wines that will only become greater with age. For a taste of some of the world’s best Pinot Noir on its home turf, these are the wines to buy.”
Then the Domaine:
Burghound says; “if you like the serious built-to-age old school style, this is one of the very best addresses around.”
And a recent Forbes article raves about; “The Great Pommards of Domaine de Courcel – Every varietal has its own distinctive smell—the smoky brick of Bordeaux, the tropical fruit of Sauvignon Blanc, the spiciness of Gewürztraminer—but the aroma of good Burgundy is one of Pinot Noir’s great pleasures, one not often found in examples from California or Australia. To be more romantic, Burgundy’s “bouquet” does open up like buds in bloom, and it is richly satisfying, even before you taste the wine. I was reminded of this while tasting eight examples of Pommard from Domaine de Courcel with owner Gilles de Courcel over dinner in New York. He is a wiry fellow who looks as if he’s happiest in the vineyards, checking the grapes’ ripeness, watching the rain clouds and shading his eyes from the Burgundian sun, although he actually lives in Bordeaux. His family has been at the estate for four centuries, and he took over its management in 1983 together with his sisters, Anne Bommelaer and Marie de Courcel. De Courcel is most certainly committed to both the traditions of his family and the estate’s terroir, improving the estate itself as well as the vineyards, and says that “Too often winemakers make a style, not a wine,” which is what many negoçiants do when they blend wines they buy from different estates. Since I faced a 40-minute drive home it killed me not to be able to drink every drop poured and to have to drain out the remains to make way for the next wine. For one thing—and at these prices—I rarely get a chance to drink Pommard. Perhaps next time Gilles de Courcel invites me for dinner in New York, I’ll get a hotel room for the night and have sweet dreams about all the wonderful wines I drank every drop of.”
Finally onto the wine:
93 Points – Wine Spectator
“Swaddled in spicy new oak, this red’s black cherry and black currant fruit is fresh and intense. Mineral and earth elements emerge as this develops on the palate. The finish is firm, full of fruit and spice. 50 cases imported. Best from 2022 through 2036.”
90-92 Points – Burghound
“Hints of menthol, violet and spice add breadth to the very ripe earth-infused nose that speaks mainly of cassis. There is excellent concentration to the notably rich and opulently textured big-bodied flavors that also boast an abundance of sappy dry extract that coats the palate on the powerful and long finish. This too is markedly firm and a wine that’s going to need plenty of time to resolve the underlying tannic spine. Drink 2027+”
90-92 Points – Vinous, Stephen Tanzer
“The Côte de Beaune produced very concentrated wines in 2015, said manager/enologist Yves Confuron, ‘but the balance of these wines is even more impressive. The ‘15s are riper than the 2007s and deeper than the 2010s but with similar tension and purity,’ he added. All of the fruit here was picked very late, after more than three inches of rain fell between September 12 and 17, but the three that chill Pommard prevented rot from taking hold, said Confuron. The wines were still in barrel, unracked, at the time of my November visit. Incidentally, Domaine de Courcel typically replaces its vines as they die, rather than pulling out entire sections of the vineyards for replanting. The advantage of this approach, noted Confuron, is that “the sweetness of the young-vines fruit can balance the extraction of tannins from the old vines, which are also lower in sugar. From 50-year-old vines, the 2015 Pommard Les Croix Noires 1er Cru is bright medium ruby. Very pure, subdued aromas of black raspberry and blackberry convey a hint of liqueur-like ripeness. Wonderfully sweet, fine-grained and full in the mouth, with a repeating liqueur-like quality nicely countered by juicy energy. Finishes very long, with sophisticated tannins arriving early and spreading out to coat the teeth and palate. The final blend will feature 15% new oak.”
Deep ruby with cherry red accents.
Dusty red berries smothered in rich currant and plum undertones.
Gushing fruit with finesse and an ultra-fine tannic grip supporting juicy acidity.
The core of tightly wound intensity echoing effortlessly for over a minute.
Wild mushrooms, rich sauces, earthy cuts of meat, charcuterie, Boeuf Bourguignon!
What the Winery Says
- Yves Confuron
- 100% Pinot Noir
- Pommard Les Croix Noires 1er Cru, Côte de Beaune, Côte d’Or, Burgundy
- Deep (0.8 m/31.5 in) and clayey
- Average vine age
- 40+ years
- Vineyard size
- 1.43 acres (over half Domaine owned)
- 18 months
- 33% new Burgundian barriques